Reference checklist

Canonical photo set

The reference shots to capture before posting a bag to community authenticators, comparing against a known example, or filing provenance for resale. Print one-page; tick as you go.

Setup: color-corrected daylight bulb (or daylight near a window), a small ruler with cm + in markings, a soft cloth for cleaning, a 12 MP phone camera. Optional but high-value: a 365 nm UV flashlight and a 10× jeweler's loupe. Full toolkit at authentication/toolkit.

1. Identity (every bag)

   • Bag, full front

     Silhouette / proportions for model identification.

   • Bag, full back

     Confirms construction, back panel, any rear pockets.

   • Bag, side / gusset

     Reads stitching count per inch; gusset construction.

   • Bag, top down (open)

     Lining, internal pockets, any internal labels.

   • Bag, bottom

     Wear pattern, any bottom feet, edge finish.

2. Creed (every bag with a creed)

   • Creed, full

     Wording, layout, embossing depth, font kerning.

   • Creed, close-up of "Coach" wordmark

     Wordmark differs by era (LEATHERWARES vs LEATHERWARE).

   • Creed, close-up of country line

     "NEW YORK CITY" → US production through 1994; "Made in <country>" → offshore.

   • Creed, close-up of serial number

     Decode era window from format (digit-letter vs letter-digit-letter).

   • Creed, ruler in frame for scale

     Required by community authenticators; dimensional check against known examples.

3. Hardware

   • Turnlock, both halves face-on

     Brass color, stamp depth, alignment, magnet test result.

   • Turnlock backplate

     Hand-finishing or replacement evidence.

   • Strap junctions / D-rings / dogleash clip

     Brass color match, stamping, era-consistency with turnlock.

   • Hangtag, front + back (if present)

     Silhouette, attachment hardware, any reverse stamping.

   • Zipper pull (if applicable)

     Maker (Talon vs YKK) → era window.

4. Stitching

   • Body seam, ruler in frame

     Count SPI; primary anchor 12 SPI per 1985 catalog.

   • Strap junction stitch

     Hand-finishing on accent points; per-model.

   • Lock-off endings (inside or underside)

     Clean backstitch vs loose tail / visible knots.

5. Leather and edges

   • Edge close-up (raw / burnished / painted?)

     Painted glossy edge on pre-1995 bag is a fake signal.

   • Leather flesh side (interior, where unlined)

     Glove-tanned cowhide presents a specific color and texture.

   • Color reference shot under daylight bulb

     iPhone photos under incandescent skew warm; daylight bulb is ground truth.

6. Optional but useful

   • 365 nm UV flood

     Reveals adhesive repairs, restoration, creed swaps invisible in visible light.

   • Loupe macro of creed embossing

     Distinguishes deep brand-stamp from shallow reproduction.

   • Bag in shoulder / hand for proportion

     Sanity-check the model dimensions against a typical body.

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